In April 2018 Nick and I arrived in Wellington, New Zealand, with plans to take a ferry from Wellington down to Picton, South Island, and explore the national parks of Westland Tai Poutini and Fiordland. These plans were quickly derailed when a freak storm hit New Zealand overnight, including tornadoes, airport closures and early April snow blizzards. The ferry was cancelled, and as we listened to the local radio for updates, we also learnt that it was the 50 year anniversary of the Wahine Disaster - New Zealand’s worst maritime disaster in which a ferry sunk off Wellington's shoreline and many people tragically lost their lives.
With the ominous storms continuing, Nick and I decided to make alternative plans and look for somewhere to stay where we could batten down the hatches and avoid the wild weather. Through a Google search of last minute North Island accomodation options we stumbled upon a house advertising a secluded location, rainforest surrounds and "a fireplace for toasty winter stays." It was located in the small village of Pukawa Bay on the southern shores of Lake Taupo, within a short drive from the Tongariro National Park. We didn't know anything about the area or what to expect, but with the storms intensifying and the lure of a warm toasty fire, we decided to book 7 nights.
The following photographs document our week spent in Pukawa Bay and exploring the nearby volcanic and geothermal wonders of the neighbouring region. The weather continued to be stormy for the most part of our stay, but in many ways this only added to the beauty with snow-capped mountains, moody skies and lush rainforest walks. The Māori tribes who have inhabited the region since at least the 14th century refer to it as 'tapu', sacred, and continue to have deep spiritual connections to the landscape. As tourists in such a sacred place Nick and I were incredibly grateful to have the experience of visiting, and particularly thankful to the custodians and communities who have worked towards protecting it over the years.

The stormy drive from Wellington to Pukuwa, Desert Road, Waiouru Military Area.

A storm coming in quickly from Desert Road, Mount Tongariro.

Arriving at dusk to our home in the hills, Pukawa Bay.

Retreating to a warm fire while 122km winds batter the North Island and close Auckland airport.

Day One: waking to find the volcanic mountain ranges covered in snow (20 min from Pukuwa Bay by car).

Day One: native plants along the Rotopounamu Track, 5km circuit (20 min drive from Pukawa Bay).

Day One: Nick looking out over Lake Rotopounamu, formed by a landslide 10,000 years ago.

Day One: the sun setting over Mount Tongariro after an afternoon of hiking.

Day One: Nick asked me to jump, so I jumped, Te Ponanga Saddle Road, photo by Nick (@nickforge).

Day Two: starting the day with a coffee.

Day Two: Nick caffeinating and reading about the local trout fishing history in the neighbouring fishing village of Turangi.

Day Two: found this beautiful old fishing reel sitting on a shelf (a "Marvel", circa 1950s or thereabouts).

Day Two: planning the day; map showing Tongariro National Park, Lake Taupo, Turangi and surrounds.

Day Two: arriving into the township of Turangi on what turned out to be a dark and rainy morning.

Day Two: the Tongariro River trail departing from Turangi, an easy walk along the river (10 min drive from Pukawa Bay).

Day Two: beginning the Tongariro River walk in Turangi as a storm approaches.

Day Two: a trout fisher crosses a bridge in Turangi with stormy skies looming.

Day Two: exploring the volcanic rocks on the river foreshore.

Day Two: the rain starts to fall on the volcanic rocks and driftwood.

Day Two: raindrops on Turangi's riverside plants.

Day Two: views from the car as we drive past the volcanic mountains and Lake Rotoaira at sunset.

Day Two: drying off after the rainy walk.

Day Two: warming by the fire with some Lord of the Rings trivia, sneaky photo by Nick (@nickforge).

Day Three: checking out the local geothermal walk at Tokaanu (5 min drive from Pukawa Bay).

Day Three: Nick taking in the thermal steam (thankfully there are no smells present in this photo).

Day Two: The people of local Māori tribe Ngāti Kurauia continue to use the thermal pools for cooking, bathing and relaxing.

Day Three: one of the many warning signs that you become accustomed to when visiting one of the most active volcanic regions in the world!

Day Three: a thermal pool that would lead anyone with an active imagination to think they are about to meet a fairy/dinosaur/Hobbit/Yoda!

Day Three: a short drive to the neighbouring town of Omari, 5 min drive north of Pukawa Bay.

Day Three: small waves lapping on Lake Taupo's foreshore just before nightfall, photo by Nick (@nickforge)

Day Four: coffee and a morning book by the fire while it rains outside.

Day Four: Morning views onto Lake Rotoaira along the road to Mount Tongariro.

Day Four: driving towards Mount Ngauruhoe to walk the first part of the infamous Tongariro Crossing.

Day Four: arriving at the Mangatepopo Car Park.

Day Four: beginning our walk to Soda Springs with minimal visibility in the distance.

Day Four: passing volcanic rocks and lakes.

Day Four: Nick laughing about the fact we can't see the huge volcano behind us.

Day Four: Mangetepapo Hut.

Day Four: alpine life.

Day Four: map warning us of the dangers of being in an active volcanic zone, and what to do if there is an eruption (the last major eruption was 2012).

Day Four: rain and wind strengthening as we attempt to start ascending the rocky mountain.

Day Four: without the proper hiking gear for heavy rain we decide to retreat back to the carpark!

Day Four: a quick drive up to Mount Ruapehu in heavy rain, view of Chateau Tongariro Hotel which was opened to the public in the 1920s.

Day Four: holiday indulgences after a rainy day.

Day Four: most of our holiday was technology-free, but Nick somehow managed to get his phone to stream the AFL that night!

Day Five: over Nick's birthday breakfast we make the decision to drive to a rainforest walk, the Ohinetonga Track.

Day Five: driving past the volcanos that we were walking around with no visibility the day before!

Day Five: arriving to lush rainforest, Ohinetonga Track.

Day Five: a spider web, Ohinetonga Track.

Day Five: Ohinetonga Track.

Day Five: we followed the sounds of water to find ourselves at the beautiful Ohinetonga River, photo by Nick (@nickforge).

Day Five: Nick eating a pre-packed sandwich by the Ohinetonga River.

Day Five: Nick's first attempt at taking a selfie with his new Fuji X-T20!

Day Five: the beautiful Ohinetonga Lagoon.

Day Five: lush plants along the Ohinetonga Track.

Day 5: the view of misty mountains as we drive home.

Day Five: warming by the fire before a birthday dinner at Oreti Village, a lovely restaurant around the corner from Pukawa Bay.

Day Six: a morning stroll before heading to the airport, views over Lake Taupo as we walk the Pukawa to Omori track (3km return).

Day Six: Nick on a mission to try and photograph the blue feathered Tui bird.

Day Six: a wall of moss and ferns.

Day Six: Nick succeeds in his mission to photograph the Tui bird, photo @nickforge.

Day Six: more walls of ferns and their different shades of green.
